Bouldering Notes

I get used to listing a bunch of things I should improve on after finishing a bouldering session. Today I went bouldering with him at our usual gym. Here’s the list I compiled after getting back home:

  • I lack speed and power. On the one hand, I didn’t ride the momentum; on the other hand, I didn’t press my feet hard enough on the footholds. My body tension is also weak, especially on overhangs. My footwork needs improvement, but it’ll take time.
  • The inside flag and heel hook suit me the most.
  • I get scared when getting to the higher positions on a route. I should still focus on climbing every single step and not let fear overcome me.
  • Press your feet hard onto the footholds!
  • Breathe, breathe.
  • Encourage yourself more and remain confident.

I easily get frustrated when I don’t see visible progress in myself. This isn’t helpful, since I did feel I improved – even just a tiny bit – every time after bouldering. So this time I’ll also list some things I’m good at or I’ve been improving on, as my memory is still fresh from today’s morning session.

  • I’m willing to climb a route multiple times in a session to improve my form and beta. This intense training on one route has proven tremendously helpful in honing my techniques and solidifying my body’s intuitive memory for the route.
  • My body’s endurance is getting better since I can climb for a longer period than before. My forearms are also recovering faster from pumping, evidencing that my body is getting more familiar with climbing.
  • I’m not afraid of trying challenging routes. I took on a V3 overhang today and was able to climb half of it. It was not bad at all for a first try.
  • By now, the “climb-with-straight-arms” principle has pretty much been engrained into my body. My body instinctively avoids abusing my biceps by not locking off my forearms whenever it can.
  • I’m getting better at flagging. For a V2 that I used to feel so hard, today I sent it with ease by commanding multiple outside flags and a back flag at the top.
  • I can identify what techniques work better for me.
  • My route reading is improving.
  • My hip rotation is good. I’m engaging my glutes better as well.
  • I practice deliberately, and thus I’m getting better at climbing.

The following video shows my third attempt on a very steep overhanging V1. My first two attempts both failed halfway. I took my time to rest before the third attempt and practiced pulling with my big toes – thus engaging my calves – on the ground to familiarize my feet with the footwork required on a steep wall. At last, I succeeded in sending this route because I stuck my feet on the footholds and rode the momentum.

Sending a steep V1 overhang on my 3rd attempt

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